KELLY, John M. Jr. (1919-2007)
[304] pp.
A.S. Barnes and Co.
1967
Second Large Printing
8 3/8" x 5 3/4"
VG/ VG
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John M. Kelly, Jr. (1919-2007) was one of the greatest surfers of all. His book is the classic on surfing. This generously illustrated volume offers the ocean sports enthusiast, especially the surfer, a handbook of information and tales about surf, surf sports, and the sea. Out of a lifetime spent near the sea actively engaged in surfing and other ocean sports, the author has gathered page after page of anecdotes, facts, descriptions and just plain wise counseling for all those interested in the sea and modern surfing. Not the least of his exploits has been the conquest of the great storm waves of the seas which for centuries have driven men and their ships into refuge. Today, a hardy breed of surfers rides these storm waves for pleasure. Whether you are an avid surfer, skin diver, boating enthusiast or merely an interested spectator of ocean sports, you will find in these pages thrilling accounts of surfing feats, a colorful summary of the practical aspects of surfing, and a wisdom of the sea passed on from Polynesian explorers of bygone centuries. - Contents: Foreword. Part I: The Sport. 1. Tall Story. 2. Riding Waves. 3. Hot Dogging. 4. Body, Mat and Belly Board Surfing. 5. Big Surf. 6. Safety and Sportsmanship. 7. Surfboards. Part II: The Sea. 8. The Origins f Waves. 9. Breaking Waves. 10. Currents, Tides and Undertow. 11. The Signs of the Sea. 12. The Undersea World. Glossary. Bibliography. Index.
